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Besides shoe performance, a shoe's impact on the skin is important. High-top designs are rough on the feet, while low-tops can cause blisters and other skin afflictions caused by the repetitive pressurized contact between skin and the flat sole.

As a rule of thumb, low-top shoes are better on loose sandstone, while high-top designs are better on the softer quartz and amorphous rock. Because our testers were unable to find accurate data on friction and slip resistance across different rock types, we can only recommend one of these pairings based on personal experience. However, we would be interested in seeing data to confirm our claims.

Beyond the number of pieces in a rock climbing shoe or its performance characteristics, we've noticed another simple preference among testers. We tend to prefer shoes with narrower toe boxes. Climbers who have flat or long-fingered toes do not enjoy the experience of climbing in a boxy pocket. The Scarpa Vapors are a popular shoe with narrow toe boxes and that photo illustrates that effect. The narrow toe box emphasizes the long-fingered toes and leg while allowing plenty of space for your foot to rock open in the cracks. The Scarpa Maestros are another popular shoe with flat soles -- see here. Our testers also liked the La Sportivas' TC Pro with its clog-like construction and adaptable toe box. For a similar shoe, the Black Diamond Aspect is softer, flexible, and has a wider toe box that provides more toe support. Other Five Ten models are also good candidates. d2c66b5586